Why Do Hamsters Like to Fight?

Why do hamsters like to fight?

Hamsters are animals who are accustomed to living alone. So if any other hamster they did not like, they will fight.

Hamsters can get together and not fight with his own family. But when he entered the 11 weeks, they will be separated from its mother.

They will store its own food. That is the sign that a hamster has grown.

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How to Care for Hamsters

Replace this sand every week or 2 weeks with new sand. After a week or two weeks, this sand will look dirty because it mixed with dirt and food scraps. If you want a little trouble, which is already in use sand can be washed, dried, and reused.
How to wash, sand used was soaked first so dirt and food scraps float so easy to be removed and separated from the sand.

Give enough food and drinks. For food, I gave the pumpkin seeds or peanuts collision with peeled skin. To drink, the advice of the seller, do not put water directly, but give sprouts (bean sprouts) every morning and evening. Thus, the cage can be kept dry all day. Many people give drink to the water so wet and hamster cages become sick and die easily.

Add new foods only if the food that has been sown or provided in place is over-eaten food. This is to keep clean so as not many leftovers were scattered in the cage.

If a female gave birth, separate from male hamsters or other hamsters, and multiply eating sprouts. The characteristics of female hamster who will bear visible from the bulge of his stomach and the parent as anxious pacing in a cage with a higher level of activity than usual. Do not forget to give a piece of cloth to make a nest for the babies to be born hamsters.

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Handling and Tame Your Hamster

Handling hamsters is one of the joys of having hamsters, but until you have had success at taming your hamster, you will not have much luck holding your hamster. Hamster do sometimes bite, but it is very important to remember that if your hamster bites, it means that your hamster is frightened and is defending itself the best way it knows how. If you are consistently calm and gentle about handling your hamster, and employ a little bribery by offering them their favorite treats from your hand, it will lead to success in taming your hamster.

General Rules for Taming Hamsters
To make handling and taming easier, there are a few simple rules to follow to make sure your hamster is not stressed before you start handling your hamster:

* when you bring home a new hamster, give it a week or so to just get used to its new home and surroundings before you try to do much handling.
* make sure your hamster has a nice, good-sized cage and the other necessities for stress-free housing.
* place you hamster's cage in a location where your hamster will be around people, but not disturbed by excess noise, harrassment from other pets, or other distractions (especially during the day when hamsters are mostly sleeping).
* don't disturb or try to handle your hamster during the day when it is sleeping, especially at the beginning. Work on taming and handling only after the hamster has emerged from his or her nest on his own -- waking up a hamster is a fairly sure way to make him or her defensive and grumpy!

Taming Hamsters
Taming requires time and patience. Don't rush through the steps, and take time to get to know your hamster and respond to its cues. The key here is to earn your hamsters trust so your hamster can be sure that he or she has no reason to be afraid of you. Remember if you push your hamster too far, too fast, your hamster will be stressed, and it will actually be harder to earn your hamsters trust. Be sure your hamster is not stressed by any of these steps before moving on to the next one:

* Step one: allow your hamster time to become comfortable in his or her new environment. Signs include your hamster eating, drinking, and playing when you are present.
* Step two: spending more time around your hamster's cage and quietly talk to the hamster to get it used to your voice. Don't know what to say? Try reading a book out loud or singing softly to your hamster!
* Step three: offer some favorite treats (try sunflower seeds, or bits of raisin or other dried fruits) by hand. Start by offering treats through the bars of the cage (if you have a wire cage, otherwise just offer them right at the edge of the cage door), and once your hamster scurries over for treats, try putting your hand just inside the cage. Don't try to touch your hamster -- let your hamster come over to explore your hand.
* Step four: place the treat on your open hand inside the cage, so that your hamster has to reach onto your hand, and perhaps place a paw or two onto your hand to get the treat. Again, don't force the issue -- let your hamster come to you.
* Step five: place the treat so that your hamster has to climb on your hand to get the treat. Once your hamster is bravely doing this (and only then) try to gently scoop up your hamster and lift him or her up. The first few times your hamster will likely jump right off, but just be gentle and persistent, and eventually your hamster will realize your hands are safe.

The time for this progression varies, especially depending on the age of the hamster and your hamster's personality. Your hamster may quickly accept being picked up, or it may take a month or more.

How to Pick Up a Hamster
The best way to pick up a hamster is cupped in the palm of your hand with the other hand over its back to prevent it jumping off your hand (and possibly getting injured). Especially at first, it is best to hold your hamster just above your lap or some other soft surface in case it falls or jumps. As your hamster gets more comfortable, let him or her crawl from hand to hand and over your arms. You can continue to offer treats, though your hamster may not be as interested in treats where there are more interesting things to see and explore.

Picking Up a Hamster That Isn't Tame
There may be a time you need to pick up a hamster that isn't hand tamed yet, especially when it is time to clean the cage. If you need to pick up an hamster that isn't yet tame place a cup (or cardboard tube with paper stuffed in one end to close it off) on its side in front of the hamster, and gently herd the hamster into the cup (or tube), which can be used to carry the hamster. Out of curiosity many hamsters will walk right into the cup.

Gloves or a thick towel can be used if you must pick up a hamster that bites and the cup method isn't working. The problems is that this can be really stressful and cause your hamster to resist handling even more. If it is necessary to use this method, take extra care to be as gentle as possible.

Tip: if you need to clean the cage of a hamster that isn't tame, or want to have an untamed hamster out of the cage for exercise, try a clean, dry bathtub. Make sure the drain is plugged, and close the bathroom door and the toilet lid (just in case your hamster is a super jumper, but most hamsters can't get out of a tub). Place the hamster's cage in the tub, open the door and let the hamster come out to explore (this won't work if you use an aquarium). Use treats to entice your hamster out, if necessary. Once your hamster is out, take the cage out of the tub to clean it, then put the cleaned cage back in the tub with the door open, and use treats to entice your hamster to get back in.

Some people will even sit in the empty bathtub with their hamster to get it used to their presence - you could add this into the steps I've given above once you get to step four or five. Just remember to let your hamster come to you, don't try to force the issue.

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Food for Your Hamster

If you want to take care your hamster food, there is a list of food that are safe for your hamster to eat.
Remember that sugar should be avoided with Campbell's dwarves as they are prone to diabetes so no fruits, corn, peas or carrots for them or anything containing alot of sugars.

All new foods should be introduced slowly to avoid upsetting the hamster's stomach and/or causing diarrhea. A good way to introduce them is to give a piece of fruit/veggie one day skip a day or two then give them another piece of fruit/veggie
skip a day or two etc. once their systems get used to that amount you can slowly add on more days.Don't go overboard with it though.I'd say two a day is the max it should go.

That 2 daily being one fruit/veggie and one protein/other food. Make sure you rinse the fruits and vegetables off with water and let them sit at room temp for a min or two before giving them to the hamster(s). If anything is gotten from outside you need to be absolutely positive that there are no pesticides on or around it. If you're not sure on that it's best to stay away from wild plants/veggies/fruits.

Fruits
Apple (seedless)
Banana
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cantaloupe.
Cherries
Cranberries
Grapes(seedless)
Lychee
Mango
Melon
Peaches (no stone)
Plums (no pits)
Raspberries
Raspberry Leaves (helpful for diarrhea)
Strawberries

Veggies
Asparagus
Bean Sprouts
Bok Choy
Broccoli
Cabbage (Limited amounts)
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Chard
Chestnuts
Chickweed
Chicory
Clover
Corn on the Cob
Cucumbers
Dandelion Leaves
Endive
Green Beans
Kale
Parsnips
Peas
Radicchio
Romaine Lettuce
Spinach
Squash
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet bell Peppers
Swiss Chard
Turnip
Water Chestnuts
Water Cress
Zucchini

Meats and Proteins foods
Cooked Ground Beef (Rinse well in hot water to remove any grease)
Cooked Chicken or Turkey (Steamed or baked)
Low Fat Cottage Cheese
Fish Cod (Cooked removing bones and skin)
Grasshoppers (Pet Shop)
Mealworms (Pet Shop)
Crickets (Pet Shop)
Bread(whole grain no white bread) soaked in milk ( Low Fat, Skim, Soy)
Eggs ( boiled or scrambled)
Plain Tofu
Plain Low Fat Yogurt
Dog Biscuits (No Garlic, onion, or onion powder)
Monkey Chow
Lab Blocks

Other foods
Buckwheat
Baby Food(low sugar and no onion or garlic)
Cheese (mild cheeses in moderation)
Cooked Plain Brown Rice
Cooked Pasta(Wheat or Spinach would be better)
Dry toast(Also helpful for diarrhea
Flax seed
Low or Sugarless Cereals
Pumpkin Seeds (unsalted)
Nuts (No almonds)
Sesame Seeds
Soybeans(Roasted no salt)
Squash seeds
Lentils
Oatmeal(dry or soaked in skim, soy or lowfat milk)
Nutritional Yeast
Bran and Wheat Germ (Refrigerated goes bad fast)
Peanuts (unsalted)
Alfafa
Unsalted Popcorn (no butter)

Foods To Avoid
Almonds (Contains Cyanic Acid)
Apple Seeds
Canned food
Chocolate
Candies
Chips and Junk food
Pork Products
Potatoes (Raw)
Raw Kidney Beans
Eggplant
Fool's Parsley
Grape Seeds
Avocado (Contains Cardiac Glycosides)
Raw Rhubarb
Tomato leaves
Oranges or Tangerines(no citrus fruits)
No watermelon (the water content is high causes diarrhea)
Cherry Stone
Peach Stone & Leaves
Apricot Stone
Lemon or Lime
Jams and jellies
Spices
Garlic
Onions
Leeks
Scallions
Chives
Pickles

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Bring a New Hamster

Before you buy any pet, make sure you have a home set up for them to minimize the stress of adjusting to a new home. If you are bringing home a new hamster soon, here is a list of supplies you will need before you get your hamster.

Cage
Get a cage that is large enough, escape-proof, and easy to clean. While the modular cages with tubes are fun, they can be difficult to clean and poor on ventilation (and the tubes can be too small for some Syrian hamsters). Never underestimate the ability of a hamster to escape as they can fit through pretty small spaces and can chew through plastic walls surprisingly quickly. If you are getting a Syrian hamster, keep in mind that many cages marketed for hamsters will be on the small side. Conversely, dwarf hamsters can often squeeze through the bars of an average hamster cage.

Bedding and Nesting Material
Avoid cedar and pine wood chips; aspen is a safer option. You can also use many of the newer paper or other fiber-based beddings.
Hamsters love a cozy nest for napping. However, the cotton nesting materials found a pet stores is unecessary (and can cause problems if eater or wrapped around toes). Shredded toilet paper or facial tissues are an excellent nesting material (and economical too).

Food
Choose a good quality food for your hamster. Pelleted foods offer a good nutritional balance and for many hamsters are a better option than loose food mixes. With a loose mix (seeds and other items), your hamster might pick out what they like and leave what they don't, which could result in a dietary imbalance. A pelleted mix can be supplemented with a variety of other items though.

Food Dishes
A shallow, small, but heavy bowl is ideal -- anything that won't be easily tipped. A small ceramic or porcelain crock is ideal, as it is sturdy and won't be chewed up.

Water Bottle
A hanging bottle with a stainless stell spout and ball is the most commonly used water container for hamsters. A bowl is too likely to be spilled, dirtied or filled with bedding.

Exercise Wheel
Hamsters love to run, and need the exercise. Do not largest, best quality wheel you can. It should have a solid surface for running and ideally no cross supports (that might catch a leg or neck), so look for one that mounts on the side of the cage. Make sure the wheel is quiet as well, since hamsters run at night (especially if your hamster will be in your room).

House / Hide
Your hamster will appreciate a private getaway for sleeping. It can be as simple as a small cardboard box (will have to be replaced often, but economical), a plastic hide box (may be chewed up), a wooden box (may be chewed or get soiled and smelly), or other things like a half coconut shell, or a small clay plant pot.

Toys
In addition to a wheel, you hamster should have a variety of things to chew on and climb on.

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Make Hamster Food, Water and Bedding Choices

Give your hamster a happy, healthy home.
There are a lot of hamster products out there and a lot of ways to give them to your hamster. This page will help your make the right decisions and make sure your hammy lives a long and healthy life!

1. Choose good bedding. The best bedding is shredded toilet paper or paper towels, or a type of soft bedding (like Carefresh), or aspen bedding. All three are practically harmless. Some types of bedding can be hazardous to your hamster. Any fluffy bedding, such as cotton, can KILL your hamster. If you use wood shavings, avoid cedar. It releases aromatic oils into the cage that can be fatal to your hamster(s). Pine isn't a wonderful choice but it's better than cedar so if those are your only choices, pick pine.
2. Spread the bedding thickly enough that your hamster can burrow in it.
3. Pick appropriate food. Never try to make your own food, because your hamsters will miss out on some of the essential nutrients they need to survive. They like variety, so try to buy food with different food types. Pellets work well too.
4. Feed your hamster every day. Remove old or stale food regularly.
5. Maintain a steady diet. Do not change your hamsters food or diet suddenly; take it slow. Add a little more of the new food every couple of days until all your hamster's food is the new kind.
6. Play with your hamster. Hide the food around the cage for them to find. Don't do this too much, though, as they may not be able to find it, and the food will go stale. Remove any leftover hidden food when you change the bedding. Also have them run around on the ground freely but you must be watching them. always keep them away from corners and wires.
7. Try hand feeding occasionally; it will build a trust bond between you and your little friend.
8. Give your hamster water, ideally in a plastic bottle. If you use a plastic bottle, make sure that the ball is metal, not plastic. Bottles are easier to handle and keep the water cleaner. If you use a bowl, choose one that is about 1 1/2 inch tall and fill it about halfway.
9. Hamsters prefer bottled water, but it isn't necessary for them to survive.
10. Place something in the cage that the hamsters can chew on. Because they are rodents, their teeth continue to grow. They must chew something to wear down this growth. Hamster-safe wood is good

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Male or Female Hamster?

KNOWING THE SEX OF A HAMSTER

It is very tricky to determine the sex of a hamster. In Syrian Hamsters, it is more easy to know their sex than Dwarf Hamsters due to their size. A male hamster will have testicles and by time these will become more noticeable. The easiest way to know the gender of your hamster, is to look at the distance between the two openings at the rear.

If the hamster is still not tamed and is afraid of you then, you can use the 'transparent box / bowl' technique. Put the hamster in the transparent box / bowl and have a peek from under the box / bowl. Alternitavely you can pick the hamster by the scruff and look at that area. Handing hamsters by the scruff has to be done very rarely since too much handling from the scruff can lead to hamster glaucoma. The above procedures can be used for Syrian, Dwarf Campbell, Dwarf Winter White and Chinese Hamsters.

In the case of Roborovski Hamsters, it is best to look at its rear area by scooping the hamster softly but firmly and holding it gently, to check the distance between the two openings at the rear. Another alternative for knowing the sex of Roborovski Hamsters is by using the 'transparent box / bowl' technique as described above.

In male hamsters, the anus and the penis (which is kept tucked up inside a small opening) are further apart. Mature male hamsters possess large, prominent testicles just under their tails.

Female hamsters will have nipples and if the coat is short these can be noticed. In females the anus and the vaginal opening are much closer together in comparison to the male hamster. Female hamsters will have nipples and if the coat is short these can be noticed. The picture on the right shows a female hamster.

A small tip on how you can identify the sex of your hamster is, that a male hamster will have a very small 'pink dot', while a female hamster does not.

Hamster Club

How To Choose a Healthy Hamster

When choosing a hamster, looking at a few simple things can help ensure that your new pet is a healthy one.

Here's How:

1. Look at the overall body condition - a hamster should be neither fat nor skinny, with no swellings.
2. Hamsters should be bright and curious in attitude, and never lethargic. This can be a bit hard to judge in a nocturnal animal, but with attention (and perhaps some very gentle prodding) hamsters should wake up and be inquisitive about what is happening.
3. The hamster's coat should be well groomed (fluffy and smooth looking), with no bare patches. Especially check for soiling around the rear end, as this may indicate a problem with diarrhea.
4. The eyes, nose and ears should be clean and free from discharge. Check the fur around the eyes and nose for signs of wetness, staining or crusts.
5. Try to get a look at the teeth, they should not be overgrown and should be well-aligned. Also check for wet or matted fur on the chin.
6. Observe the hamster's breathing, which should be quiet and not labored, with no wheezing, clicking or gurgling noises.
7. Watch the hamster move around - it should have no signs of lameness, stiffness, or reluctance to move around.
8. Look at the hamster's surroundings. The cage should be clean, with good access to fresh food and water, and not overcrowded. Hamsters kept under good conditions will be less stressed and have less exposure to disease.
9. Observe how the hamster reacts to people -- most will be skittish at first but ideally try to pick a hamster that is relatively calm about being approached and okay with being handled.

Tips:

1. Try to find out the age of your hamster, and adopt one that is as young as possible (around 6 weeks old is best).
2. If any of the hamsters in the same cage (or even at the same store) seem ill, resist the temptation to adopt from there (if it is contagious your hamster may be next and there may be possible heartbreak ahead).
3. Make sure the store separates males and females. Familiarize yourself with the differences between males and females, and if the store doesn't separate them or seems unsure about the gender of the hamsters, move on to another store. It is best to avoid the possibility of surprise litters, especially in very young hamsters (they can become pregnant by about 5 weeks old but this is not a good thing).
4. If the shop will not let you handle the hamster before you buy, it is best to move on as it is definitely worth trying to handle a potential pet to assess its temperament.
5. If you find a breeder, make sure they are breeding for specific goals such as temperament and health.

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Keep Your Hamster Happy

It's easy to keep a hamster happy by caring for its basic needs on a regular basis. Hamsters become very bored when you don't play with them. Here are a few steps to help you take your hamster to a cage of joy!

1. Play with your hamster once a day,you can let it climb on you, help it push the wheel(work those muscles Fluffy!) or pretend to take it to a fancy dinner by putting a little piece of wood covered with a tissue in the cage and putting the food on it!
2. Change its water and food every day,hamsters are not "leftover" animals!
3. Use a hamster comb to help keep its fur clean,because although hamsters groom themselves,they still need a little help!
4. Avoid prodding the hamster to wake up,you don't like being awoken in a rude fashion and your hamster doesn't either!(do unto hamsters as thou would do to thyself!)
5. Talk to it even if it doesn't appear to understand you; it is reassuring to your hamster and may help YOU with public speaking or self confidence problems!
6. Keep its cage nice and clean,but make sure they have something to do while you are at school or work - maybe give them a little house,help them out with a little tunnel system and maybe put their food under something they can jump off - rodents sometimes like to sit or jump into their food.
7. Let it get lots of exercise; let it run around or use a hamster ball. Remember to put a wheel in the cage.

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Choosing Toys for Your Hamster

Hamsters, both dwarf and Syrian, are active creatures and need a variety of toys and other items to provide opportunities for exercise, exploration and play. While they do appreciate time outside of the cage to explore in a hamster-safe environment, there are many things your can place inside the cage to provide exercise as play time.

Wheels and Run-Abouts
Most hamsters make great use of a hamster wheel and your hamster's cage should have a wheel if possible. It is important to make sure the wheel is the proper size and try to get a solid surface wheel to cut down the risk of injuries. Run-Abouts are the clear plastic balls (several styles are available) in which you put your hamster and let them run around on the floor without worry of them getting away on you. Both wheels and run-abouts are great ways to make sure your hamster gets enough exercise, and more advice on choosing a wheel or run-about is found in "Hamster Wheels and Run-Abouts."

Chew Toys
Hamsters, as will all rodents, need a good supply of items and toys they they can gnaw on to keep their constantly growing teeth in good condition.

Wooden pet chew toys are an ideal choice. Wood items should ideally be safe (stay away from cedar or other evergreen type woods), and pesticide and chemical free. If you are unsure a type of wood is safe, it is probably best to stick with items made for use by pets. Pesticide-free fruit tree branches from your backyard or hardwood wood blocks or shapes that are not chemically treated are okay for your hamster.

Willow balls, rings and tunnels are also marketed for rabbits, and the smaller sized of these items can be used for hamsters.

In addition to wood chews, cardboard can also be provided for chewing (and for hiding). Ideally, choose cardboard with as little ink as possible as there has been concern over the content of commercial inks in the past (I can find no solid evidence one way or the other on the safety of colored cardboard, and I have used colored cardboard for my mice, so don't panic if you are using colored cardboard). Hamsters also love cardboard tubes from paper towel and toilet paper rolls, although some people are also concerned about the safety of the glues used in these. Many hamsters regularly chew these items without problems, but if you are concerned there are now commercial tubes that are a bit sturdier and are said to be safe for chewing (e.g. Totally Chewbular Play Tubes and Critter Crunchy Chew Tube).

Climbing and Houses
There are also a variety of climbers and houses/huts designed for hamsters and other small rodents. Wood ladders and climbing blocks are great for hamsters. If you can't find wood ladders in the hamster section of your pet store, check the bird section. Any of these wooden items are bound to be chewed as well, as that is natural for hamsters, so be prepared to replace them as needed.

You can also use hardwood dowels and wood to made your own ramps and climbing structures. Coconut shells can also be used to create huts and houses. Organic ropes (hemp, sisal, cotton) can also be used to construct hanging toys, walkways and bridges in the hamster cage. Extreme caution is required with hanging toys and ropes -- use thicker sizes of rope and be absolutely sure your hamster (head, body, legs or toenails) can not get entangled in any ropes used to hang items, or use them only under close supervision.

Plastic Toys
Caution is needed when it comes to plastic. Most hamsters love plastic tunnels and tubes and other play structures, but chewing can be a problem. Some plastic toys will be destroyed very quickly, and if you hamster is swallowing plastic pieces from chewing, that is a big concern. When you offer plastic items, keep a close eye on them and if your hamster is chewing too much, remove the item.

Sand and Digging
You can provide a dish of chinchilla dust bath or fine sand, in which you hamster may roll to keep its coat in good condition. Also, most hamsters love to dig so providing a deeper box of sand or sterilized soil big enough for the hamster to burrow in is a great treat for hamsters.

Mineral Blocks, Pumice Stones
These are not really necessary. If your hamster does gnaw on them it can help keep their teeth in good condition, but they are very hard and many hamsters won't really use them. A variety of natural wood chew items is a better option (and necessary minerals should be provided via the diet).

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What is Hamster ?

Hamsters are mammals that belong to the rodent family having large incisor teeth that are continually growing necessitating gnawing to prevent the teeth from overgrowing. The word 'rodent' is derived from the latin word 'rodere' which means 'to gnaw'.

Hamsters form the Family Cricetidae which is broken down into different Genera (including Cricetulus, Phodopus and Calomyscus). Within each Genera are various species of hamster. There are many different species of hamsters throughout the world and most hamsters inhabit semi-desert areas where they live in burrows. These burrows consist of many tunnels and separate chambers including chambers where the hamster will store food and sleep. Hamsters are nocturnal, sleeping during the hot days and waking in the cooler evenings. They have very poor eyesight but a keen sense of smell and excellent hearing.

Most species of hamsters have expandable cheek pouches in which they can carry food and bedding back to their burrow where they will store food. The word 'hamster' comes from the German word 'hamstern' which means 'to hoard'.

Only a few hamster species are widely kept as pets but the hamster is the most popular of the smaller rodents kept as a pet in many countries today.

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