Why Do Hamsters Like to Fight?

Why do hamsters like to fight?

Hamsters are animals who are accustomed to living alone. So if any other hamster they did not like, they will fight.

Hamsters can get together and not fight with his own family. But when he entered the 11 weeks, they will be separated from its mother.

They will store its own food. That is the sign that a hamster has grown.

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How to Care for Hamsters

Replace this sand every week or 2 weeks with new sand. After a week or two weeks, this sand will look dirty because it mixed with dirt and food scraps. If you want a little trouble, which is already in use sand can be washed, dried, and reused.
How to wash, sand used was soaked first so dirt and food scraps float so easy to be removed and separated from the sand.

Give enough food and drinks. For food, I gave the pumpkin seeds or peanuts collision with peeled skin. To drink, the advice of the seller, do not put water directly, but give sprouts (bean sprouts) every morning and evening. Thus, the cage can be kept dry all day. Many people give drink to the water so wet and hamster cages become sick and die easily.

Add new foods only if the food that has been sown or provided in place is over-eaten food. This is to keep clean so as not many leftovers were scattered in the cage.

If a female gave birth, separate from male hamsters or other hamsters, and multiply eating sprouts. The characteristics of female hamster who will bear visible from the bulge of his stomach and the parent as anxious pacing in a cage with a higher level of activity than usual. Do not forget to give a piece of cloth to make a nest for the babies to be born hamsters.

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Handling and Tame Your Hamster

Handling hamsters is one of the joys of having hamsters, but until you have had success at taming your hamster, you will not have much luck holding your hamster. Hamster do sometimes bite, but it is very important to remember that if your hamster bites, it means that your hamster is frightened and is defending itself the best way it knows how. If you are consistently calm and gentle about handling your hamster, and employ a little bribery by offering them their favorite treats from your hand, it will lead to success in taming your hamster.

General Rules for Taming Hamsters
To make handling and taming easier, there are a few simple rules to follow to make sure your hamster is not stressed before you start handling your hamster:

* when you bring home a new hamster, give it a week or so to just get used to its new home and surroundings before you try to do much handling.
* make sure your hamster has a nice, good-sized cage and the other necessities for stress-free housing.
* place you hamster's cage in a location where your hamster will be around people, but not disturbed by excess noise, harrassment from other pets, or other distractions (especially during the day when hamsters are mostly sleeping).
* don't disturb or try to handle your hamster during the day when it is sleeping, especially at the beginning. Work on taming and handling only after the hamster has emerged from his or her nest on his own -- waking up a hamster is a fairly sure way to make him or her defensive and grumpy!

Taming Hamsters
Taming requires time and patience. Don't rush through the steps, and take time to get to know your hamster and respond to its cues. The key here is to earn your hamsters trust so your hamster can be sure that he or she has no reason to be afraid of you. Remember if you push your hamster too far, too fast, your hamster will be stressed, and it will actually be harder to earn your hamsters trust. Be sure your hamster is not stressed by any of these steps before moving on to the next one:

* Step one: allow your hamster time to become comfortable in his or her new environment. Signs include your hamster eating, drinking, and playing when you are present.
* Step two: spending more time around your hamster's cage and quietly talk to the hamster to get it used to your voice. Don't know what to say? Try reading a book out loud or singing softly to your hamster!
* Step three: offer some favorite treats (try sunflower seeds, or bits of raisin or other dried fruits) by hand. Start by offering treats through the bars of the cage (if you have a wire cage, otherwise just offer them right at the edge of the cage door), and once your hamster scurries over for treats, try putting your hand just inside the cage. Don't try to touch your hamster -- let your hamster come over to explore your hand.
* Step four: place the treat on your open hand inside the cage, so that your hamster has to reach onto your hand, and perhaps place a paw or two onto your hand to get the treat. Again, don't force the issue -- let your hamster come to you.
* Step five: place the treat so that your hamster has to climb on your hand to get the treat. Once your hamster is bravely doing this (and only then) try to gently scoop up your hamster and lift him or her up. The first few times your hamster will likely jump right off, but just be gentle and persistent, and eventually your hamster will realize your hands are safe.

The time for this progression varies, especially depending on the age of the hamster and your hamster's personality. Your hamster may quickly accept being picked up, or it may take a month or more.

How to Pick Up a Hamster
The best way to pick up a hamster is cupped in the palm of your hand with the other hand over its back to prevent it jumping off your hand (and possibly getting injured). Especially at first, it is best to hold your hamster just above your lap or some other soft surface in case it falls or jumps. As your hamster gets more comfortable, let him or her crawl from hand to hand and over your arms. You can continue to offer treats, though your hamster may not be as interested in treats where there are more interesting things to see and explore.

Picking Up a Hamster That Isn't Tame
There may be a time you need to pick up a hamster that isn't hand tamed yet, especially when it is time to clean the cage. If you need to pick up an hamster that isn't yet tame place a cup (or cardboard tube with paper stuffed in one end to close it off) on its side in front of the hamster, and gently herd the hamster into the cup (or tube), which can be used to carry the hamster. Out of curiosity many hamsters will walk right into the cup.

Gloves or a thick towel can be used if you must pick up a hamster that bites and the cup method isn't working. The problems is that this can be really stressful and cause your hamster to resist handling even more. If it is necessary to use this method, take extra care to be as gentle as possible.

Tip: if you need to clean the cage of a hamster that isn't tame, or want to have an untamed hamster out of the cage for exercise, try a clean, dry bathtub. Make sure the drain is plugged, and close the bathroom door and the toilet lid (just in case your hamster is a super jumper, but most hamsters can't get out of a tub). Place the hamster's cage in the tub, open the door and let the hamster come out to explore (this won't work if you use an aquarium). Use treats to entice your hamster out, if necessary. Once your hamster is out, take the cage out of the tub to clean it, then put the cleaned cage back in the tub with the door open, and use treats to entice your hamster to get back in.

Some people will even sit in the empty bathtub with their hamster to get it used to their presence - you could add this into the steps I've given above once you get to step four or five. Just remember to let your hamster come to you, don't try to force the issue.

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Food for Your Hamster

If you want to take care your hamster food, there is a list of food that are safe for your hamster to eat.
Remember that sugar should be avoided with Campbell's dwarves as they are prone to diabetes so no fruits, corn, peas or carrots for them or anything containing alot of sugars.

All new foods should be introduced slowly to avoid upsetting the hamster's stomach and/or causing diarrhea. A good way to introduce them is to give a piece of fruit/veggie one day skip a day or two then give them another piece of fruit/veggie
skip a day or two etc. once their systems get used to that amount you can slowly add on more days.Don't go overboard with it though.I'd say two a day is the max it should go.

That 2 daily being one fruit/veggie and one protein/other food. Make sure you rinse the fruits and vegetables off with water and let them sit at room temp for a min or two before giving them to the hamster(s). If anything is gotten from outside you need to be absolutely positive that there are no pesticides on or around it. If you're not sure on that it's best to stay away from wild plants/veggies/fruits.

Fruits
Apple (seedless)
Banana
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cantaloupe.
Cherries
Cranberries
Grapes(seedless)
Lychee
Mango
Melon
Peaches (no stone)
Plums (no pits)
Raspberries
Raspberry Leaves (helpful for diarrhea)
Strawberries

Veggies
Asparagus
Bean Sprouts
Bok Choy
Broccoli
Cabbage (Limited amounts)
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Chard
Chestnuts
Chickweed
Chicory
Clover
Corn on the Cob
Cucumbers
Dandelion Leaves
Endive
Green Beans
Kale
Parsnips
Peas
Radicchio
Romaine Lettuce
Spinach
Squash
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet bell Peppers
Swiss Chard
Turnip
Water Chestnuts
Water Cress
Zucchini

Meats and Proteins foods
Cooked Ground Beef (Rinse well in hot water to remove any grease)
Cooked Chicken or Turkey (Steamed or baked)
Low Fat Cottage Cheese
Fish Cod (Cooked removing bones and skin)
Grasshoppers (Pet Shop)
Mealworms (Pet Shop)
Crickets (Pet Shop)
Bread(whole grain no white bread) soaked in milk ( Low Fat, Skim, Soy)
Eggs ( boiled or scrambled)
Plain Tofu
Plain Low Fat Yogurt
Dog Biscuits (No Garlic, onion, or onion powder)
Monkey Chow
Lab Blocks

Other foods
Buckwheat
Baby Food(low sugar and no onion or garlic)
Cheese (mild cheeses in moderation)
Cooked Plain Brown Rice
Cooked Pasta(Wheat or Spinach would be better)
Dry toast(Also helpful for diarrhea
Flax seed
Low or Sugarless Cereals
Pumpkin Seeds (unsalted)
Nuts (No almonds)
Sesame Seeds
Soybeans(Roasted no salt)
Squash seeds
Lentils
Oatmeal(dry or soaked in skim, soy or lowfat milk)
Nutritional Yeast
Bran and Wheat Germ (Refrigerated goes bad fast)
Peanuts (unsalted)
Alfafa
Unsalted Popcorn (no butter)

Foods To Avoid
Almonds (Contains Cyanic Acid)
Apple Seeds
Canned food
Chocolate
Candies
Chips and Junk food
Pork Products
Potatoes (Raw)
Raw Kidney Beans
Eggplant
Fool's Parsley
Grape Seeds
Avocado (Contains Cardiac Glycosides)
Raw Rhubarb
Tomato leaves
Oranges or Tangerines(no citrus fruits)
No watermelon (the water content is high causes diarrhea)
Cherry Stone
Peach Stone & Leaves
Apricot Stone
Lemon or Lime
Jams and jellies
Spices
Garlic
Onions
Leeks
Scallions
Chives
Pickles

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Bring a New Hamster

Before you buy any pet, make sure you have a home set up for them to minimize the stress of adjusting to a new home. If you are bringing home a new hamster soon, here is a list of supplies you will need before you get your hamster.

Cage
Get a cage that is large enough, escape-proof, and easy to clean. While the modular cages with tubes are fun, they can be difficult to clean and poor on ventilation (and the tubes can be too small for some Syrian hamsters). Never underestimate the ability of a hamster to escape as they can fit through pretty small spaces and can chew through plastic walls surprisingly quickly. If you are getting a Syrian hamster, keep in mind that many cages marketed for hamsters will be on the small side. Conversely, dwarf hamsters can often squeeze through the bars of an average hamster cage.

Bedding and Nesting Material
Avoid cedar and pine wood chips; aspen is a safer option. You can also use many of the newer paper or other fiber-based beddings.
Hamsters love a cozy nest for napping. However, the cotton nesting materials found a pet stores is unecessary (and can cause problems if eater or wrapped around toes). Shredded toilet paper or facial tissues are an excellent nesting material (and economical too).

Food
Choose a good quality food for your hamster. Pelleted foods offer a good nutritional balance and for many hamsters are a better option than loose food mixes. With a loose mix (seeds and other items), your hamster might pick out what they like and leave what they don't, which could result in a dietary imbalance. A pelleted mix can be supplemented with a variety of other items though.

Food Dishes
A shallow, small, but heavy bowl is ideal -- anything that won't be easily tipped. A small ceramic or porcelain crock is ideal, as it is sturdy and won't be chewed up.

Water Bottle
A hanging bottle with a stainless stell spout and ball is the most commonly used water container for hamsters. A bowl is too likely to be spilled, dirtied or filled with bedding.

Exercise Wheel
Hamsters love to run, and need the exercise. Do not largest, best quality wheel you can. It should have a solid surface for running and ideally no cross supports (that might catch a leg or neck), so look for one that mounts on the side of the cage. Make sure the wheel is quiet as well, since hamsters run at night (especially if your hamster will be in your room).

House / Hide
Your hamster will appreciate a private getaway for sleeping. It can be as simple as a small cardboard box (will have to be replaced often, but economical), a plastic hide box (may be chewed up), a wooden box (may be chewed or get soiled and smelly), or other things like a half coconut shell, or a small clay plant pot.

Toys
In addition to a wheel, you hamster should have a variety of things to chew on and climb on.

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